test 1: (only for cars with mechanical clutch fan): cold engine (morning): Give a hand spin to the clutch fan. if it turns an entire rotation or more, it's faulty. Should spin half rotation.

test 2: (only for cars with mechanical clutch fan): hot engine running. have a buddy look at the clutch fan. turn off the engine. if the fan spins more than 2 seconds, it's faulty. Should stop relatively quick.

test 3: cold engine (morning). turn on the engine, grab the hose going to the radiator. if the hose starts to get warm straight away you have a stuck open thermostat. should start getting hot with coolant above 86C (check at what temperature your thermostat is designed to open)

test 4: inspect the radiator stack for dirt and debris. wash it with a water hose (no pressure nor aggressive detergent or you damage the fins).

test 5: you need a radiator funnel for this... attach the funnel to the radiator, partially fill it with coolant or distilled water. turn on the engine and after some idling accelerate. if you get no bubbles you are OK, if you get bubbles and after some time they stop you effectively removed air, if you keep getting bubbles you may have a damaged head gasket

test 6: check AC gas pressure. if the gas is too low or too high the AC compressor may cause unnecessary load and heat

Other potential causes:

• tap water in the radiator reduce heat exchange, cause rust, and clogs the radiator
• leakage in the coolant reservoir cap (also called overflow tank) can prevent optimal coolant pressure and cause cavitation and micro-boiling. check if your car is designed to have a pressure valve on the cap of the tank or of the radiator.
• inverting the caps (radiator and coolant tank, see above) can cause issues like air not exiting the radiator, cooling system not being pressurized of building excessive pressure, dirt getting in, etc..
• damaged water pump can prevent effective circulation of water and cause micro-boiling
• cracks/leaks can cause air in the system
• mixed coolant types (i.e. red Toyota with green Nissan) can cause gunk/deposits and clog the radiator
• if the radiator fluid is too old it can turn acidic and damage the head gasket or other components
• if the PCV valve is stuck open it can cause gunk in the intake plenum and get you hotter air sucked in from the crankcase
• a thermostat that doesn't fully open (because of damage or deposits) restricts the flow of coolant circulation.

Tire Deflation for Sand Driving

Deflation values can vary across off-road vehicles, but from my own experience behind the wheel of a Ford Everest, I’ve found these settings work best for soft sand:

• 14 psi on the front tires
• 13 psi on the rear tires

This setup gives just the right balance of traction and floatation without compromising control. Always adjust based on terrain and load—but this is my go-to for desert runs.

Visibility is survival in the dunes

Mounting a flagpole and flag onto a vehicle is a safety compliance. In undulating terrain, vehicles can be completely hidden behind sand dunes. A tall flag mounted on a pole allows others to spot you before your vehicle becomes visible, reducing the risk of head-on collisions.

Drive Mode Set-Up

1. Use the rotary dial on the centre console to select Sand Mode.
2. Once engaged, the digital instrument cluster will display the selected mode.
3. Activating Sand Mode automatically engages the 4x4 High (4H) setting, ensuring optimal traction and control across soft terrain.
4. Heads-up: Sand Mode automatically engages the rear differential lock.
5. The differential lock needs to be switched off, using the switch as shown. it’s best reserved for recovery situations.
6. De-activate the differential lock from touch screen of the centre console.
7. To fully disable ESC (Electronic Stability Control), press and hold the switch for around 8 seconds. Until the dashboard indicator confirms it’s off.
8. Switch to Manual mode by pressing the ‘M’ button located on the side of the gear shifter. This gives full control over gear selection for precision driving in the dunes.
9. Gear changes in Manual mode are simple, using the +/- buttons on the side of the gear shifter.
10. The current gear selection is clearly displayed on the driver’s front console, giving you real-time control and awareness while navigating the dunes.

With these essential steps, your Ford Everest is primed for safe and confident desert driving. Always respect the terrain, drive responsibly, and enjoy the adventure ahead.

Just sharing some tips for Land Cruiser 300: 

1. If you do not have a kill switch and your LC 300 is equipped with Multi Train System (MTS) the best settings for sand would be. Select Sand Mode in your MTS then press the traction control switch of button for another 8 seconds. This will cut back interference of the system to only 20 percent. 
2. Central diff lock is your enemy while driving normally and fast in the sand. It makes the car really heavier , increase the turning radius really badly and any chance of bailing out a dune climbing will end up in stuck in a weird angle, also the responsiveness of the car become really sluggish.
3. Investing in scan Gauge or any other monitoring method is a good option as the LC does not have a reading for Transmission oil temp or air intake temperature.
4. The dealership insists all the time to put 0-20 Engine oil. Replace that with 5-40 or 5-30 at least
5. For the suspension upgrade , you either stay on the stock or go all way to a good reservoir based Suspension system , the car is heavy and any mid tier suspension will not tolerate especially once its heats up.
6. installing a gear cooler with a BTU Grade of 20-23K is not a bad idea if the budget allows it. The transmission temp will heat up a bit when u push the car
   
   
7. always Remember that the car is equipped with twin turbos and the max torque is achieved around 3500 - 4000 RPM , use this for your benefit. The car by default is tuned to low RPM - High Torque

hope this Helps